St. Barts

Party Over Here!

By Stefanie Michaels

      It is hard for me to actually relax while traveling, without turning much needed down time into a location scout, or writing assignment. (Hence, this writing assignment!) In my search for a new relaxing vacation destination I called a friend who suggested an amazing little island in the Caribbean called St. Barts. I knew he would know where to go, and it sounded like the perfect little island, with beautiful white sand beaches, and crystal blue swimming pool waters.

Party clothes? Here I was discussing how much I needed the time to relax, and yet, I was considering this place where sunsets gave way to evenings filled with decadent parties on yachts, at villas, and in restaurants on the beach? "Trust me, its paradise" he said, "Be careful... I know you, you'll fall in love".

While we spoke about St. Barts, my friend made another suggestion. Bring my party clothes. Party clothes? Here I was discussing how much I needed the time to relax, and yet, I was considering this place where sunsets gave way to evenings filled with decadent parties on yachts, at villas, and in restaurants on the beach? "Trust me, its paradise" he said, "Be careful... I know you, you'll fall in love". He abruptly said his good-bye, and I was left with intrigue. I took his advice and I booked my ticket to paradise.

Eight Square Miles

St. Barts was discovered by Christopher Columbus and named after his brother, Bartolomeo. You might not have heard of it, or heard very little about it, because it has been one of the world's best-kept secrets. When I say little, I mean tiny. The island is only eight square miles in size. St. Barts across from St. Martin, and it is very French. Most everyone speaks French who live there. There aren't any cruise ships allowed in the waters around St. Barts, and there is little to no tourism promotion. You almost have had to find out about St. Barts via a recommendation, or just by accident.

I was to arrive in St. Barts on a twelve-passenger prop plane. I am not one to be fearful of props. I think it's more fun being tossed around a bit and sitting with the pilots! I was forewarned of the harried landing. St. Barts has one of the shortest runways in the world, and the end of the runway sits St. Jean Beach. My fellow passengers, who had been to St. Barts before, were swapping missed runway stories. One story had the plane coming in too fast with little runway to spare. A quick thinking pilot pulled back up, and missed the beach. The landing gear had skimmed the water, picking up an unwilling passenger who was windsurfing. The windsurfer abandoned his gear on impact, but the board and sail took flight with the plane! I thought to myself... adventure and excitement... this is cool!

My flight ended up uneventful. I deplaned, and what I saw took my breath away. The terminal at the Juliana Airport looked like an oversized Hansel and Gretal cottage, painted mint green with white trim, complete with a back drop of picturesque mountains. It only took that moment, and I knew what my friend had meant... I fell instantly in love with St. Barts.

I grabbed my bags and headed to my rental car. The cars on the island are small to fit on the windy and narrow two lane roads. Maneuvering on these roads is an adventure in itself. There are other options for rent such as motorcycles and mopeds, and two seated cars called Smarts, which are an efficient way to get around the island.

If you like partying, the two-week period starting just before Christmas through the New Year is the busiest and best time for partying in St. Barts. The climate hovers around 80 degrees and the whole island turns into one big party. The island attracts mega moguls and celebrities during this time, converging on private airplanes and yachts, helping to sell out the island.

There are only so many accommodations an eight mile island can develop, and space is limited. Hotels increase their prices ten fold. An average two star accommodation can run upwards of $500 to $700 per night and a two week minimum stay is required. Whether you choose to stay two days, ten days or the whole two weeks... you pay for two weeks. No exceptions.

There is an alternative to these over priced hotels. There are more than 200 villas available from agencies such as Sibarth, and the Marla Agency. If you are planning to travel during this peak time, then booking the villa of choice the January before is highly suggested. A modest two bedroom villa, can rent anywhere from $8,000 to $12,000 per week, again with that minimum required two week booking.

A necessity on the island is a cell phone. There are agencies that provide phones for rent, and your villa rental agency can help set you up with one as well. The reason why these little gadgets are so important is that when you meet someone, you had them a card with your personal cell phone number on it. This way they can contact you to about the party du jour, and happenings on the island. Armed and ready with my cell phone, I inevitably turned into a party queen, roving from one decadent party to the next.

I know I had promised myself the relaxation time, and surprisingly enough, I managed to lounge the days away at the beach. My favorite beach is Grand Saline on the island's south shore, or 'Caribbean side'. It has those swimming pool blue waters, rolling waves and beautiful scenery. St. Barts boasts 20 beautiful beaches, and there is something for everyone...beach going, yachting, jet skiing, snorkeling, fishing and surfing.

Gustavia

The main town, in the most beautiful of harbors, is Gustavia. Gustavia has some of the best shopping in the world. Boutiques such as Hermès, Armani, Ralph Lauren, Cartier, La Perla, Prada, are just a few of the designers, who cater to the "St. Barts clientele". Affluence is everywhere. Because the island is hard to get to, and not well known, it attracts royalty, moguls and celebrities looking for privacy. Autographs and stargazing is strictly out of the question. Celebrities such as Julianne Moore, Woody Allen, Steven Spielberg, Elton John, Leo DiCaprio, Puff Daddy, and Mariah Carrey can be seen eating and shopping in the boutiques of Gustavia.

Gustavia's harbor is quite a spectacle in itself. Yachts dock from all over the world. Lined up, side by side, they are cruise ship sized. Paul Allen's five-story yacht docked with its four wave-runners hanging off the sides and on the back upper deck, is a helicopter complete with landing pad, which sits next to the Estee Lauder yacht. Leo DiCaprio held a New Years Eve Party on his chartered $80,000 dollar a day yacht, which was next to... and the list goes on and on.

Food of the Gods...

St. Barts offers an array of places to dine and people watch. Right on the beach is the trendy La Plage. Owners Carol (see photo) and Thierry throw annual themed lunch beach parties, and reservations are mandatory. It's a wild affair, and themes can be disco Tuesday, or cowboy Thursday, or the Red Party, where you must come dressed in red. Carol's clothing boutique inside La Plage Restaurant, offers up great accessories and costumes, as well as some hot designs by Carol and other designers, and modeled by some of France's hottest models. You can purchase right off the models and have it wrapped and ready for you to wear.

After lunch has been served and the tables cleared, the music gets bumping and dancing on tables is encouraged. The same owners of La Plage also own Le Ti St. Barts Cantina. It is the place to be in the evenings. Beautiful people and amazing food! Be prepared for late nights at Le Ti, around 2:00 am the party is just getting started.

There are so many restaurants to enjoy, more than twenty-five at my count. I would need to be there an extra month to try them all. One of my favorites is a lunch place called Le Tamarin. You can choose from traditional Caribbean dishes to fresh catches of the day, such as mouthwatering lobster, and don't miss their famous chocolate desserts.

While I was in St. Barts this year, there were two restaurant opening parties. The first was for the beautiful Niki Beach, and the other was for Zanzibarth. Niki beach sits right on the beach, with lounges and oversized beds to relax on, with a beautiful white on white bar and motif, and Zanzibarth just oozes "cool".

Other Mentionables...

• L'Iguane in the heart of Gustavia for happy hour and Sushi.
• Baie des Anges for their lobster salad.
• Maya for their eclectic dishes.
• L'Orchidee on the beach at the Christopher Hotel, in Pointe Milou.
• Le Deck for an indoor/outdoor nightclub after midnight.
• L'Esprit Saline for a wonderful Medeteranean dish.
• Le Piment for Salmon tare-tare and Panini's.

Before I knew it I was facing a flight out the next morning. My two weeks in St. Barts had flown by. I knew that all good things must come to an end...especially the most decadent ones. I found myself so relaxed and "in love" with everything St. Barts. I really didn't want to go home just yet, which is rare for me. I'm usually one to adventure somewhere new, hardly returning to the same place more than once.

On the plane I took a moment to close my eyes, and reflect on one of the most incredible travel experiences I've had to date, all the while thinking to myself, "I can't wait to see you again next year, St. Barts!"