amaica. Exciting, provocative, colorful, unpredictable, sometimes downright scary. If you habitually avoid the unexpected and seek the sanctuary of American food chains and a buttoned-down culture, then you're better off in Florida. But if you live for adventure and spicy foods, this could become your favorite tropical getaway.
Jamaica's rich history runs the gamut from pirates to plantations, from colonialism and slave revolts to proud independence. Today, the tropical island has become the land of relaxation, reggae and Rasta culture. Tourism now accounts for 45 percent of Jamaica's (reported) foreign income, and we can see why. Thanks to the island's warm, crystal blue water, teeming fish and gorgeous reefs, it is the perfect place to learn how to scuba dive or spend a relaxing day snorkeling. The adventurous can also go 4x4 off-roading through the jungle, take a river rafting trip to spot crocodiles, or hike to a secluded waterfall. If you can dream it up, you can do it here. From water skiing to Sea-Dooing to river tubing and horseback riding; it's all available in Jamaica.
The GDP is a strikingly low $2,653 per capita, making it one of the poorest countries in the Caribbean. You might never notice the poverty if, like most vacationers, you travel directly from the airport to your hotel along the northern roads from Montego Bay to Ochos Rios, as this strip is lined with beautifully manicured golf courses and giant international-style resorts.
If you want to see the real Jamaica, you can rent a car at the airport for $300 US per week, and take a drive through the tropical mountains of central Jamaica, or tour the densely urbanized Kingston area, the resort-cluttered western coast, or the less travelled lower portion of the island. Be careful, though, driving at night-goats and cattle roam not only the fields but also most of the roads, and it's not uncommon to see animals get hit.
Along the way, be sure to stop at some of the many roadside produce stands. The fruit they offer is wonderfully fresh and fragrant; there's a world of difference in the flavour of the bananas and papayas at the supermarket back home and the ones you'll be lucky enough to try here. If you have more of an appetite, you may like to try some of the jerk chicken or goat sold by roadside vendors. It's hot, tender and spicy, served with bread, rolled up in foil.
The Jamaican attitude is the epitome of the laid-back island lifestyle. Bob Marley and reggae rules, while the Rastafarian religion promotes smoking ganja for spiritual purposes. A wise Jamaican told me the wistful story of a village fisherman who was visited one day by a stranger. The stranger told him that he could help him expand his business-that in five years he could have ten boats, and in ten years he could sell his business and retire. He would have to work long and hard to build his fishing business into this empire, but its fruits would be plentiful. The fisherman responded simply, "Why would I want to do that, mon? I fish when I want to, sit around all day, smoke ganja and laugh with my friends. I already feel like I'm retired!"
As you may have heard, for all its beauty and sensual pleasures, Jamaica is not the safest spot in the Caribbean. There are about 1200 murders per year here, for a population of only 2.7 million. And, according to Amnesty International, more people are killed by police here (per capita) than anywhere else. Although marijuana and cocaine (two major Jamaican exports) are illegal, a great many people you meet in passing are eager to hook you up with your drug of choice.
While most people are friendly and welcoming, it's still advisable not to wander too far off the beaten path.
It is not unheard of for tourists to be shot at when they stumble upon a hidden marijuana crop. Growers are in a state of constant warfare with local authorities and the U.S. DEA, which operates here as well. We're anything but shrinking violets, but we got a bit spooked after taking a detour in our rental car down a red dirt road and finding ourselves amid fields of marijuana bordering mansions the likes of which you'd be hard-pressed to match in Palm Beach or Beverly Hills.
Despite all the craziness that is Jamaica, it still tops many celebrities' lists for tropical vacation getaways. That's thanks in part to the introduction of the famously hip and exclusive group of Island Outpost resorts. Island Outpost owner Chris Blackwell used to own Island Records (Bob Marley, U2, The Cranberries, etc.), but sold the label to devote his attention to his resorts, which have become a magnet for well-heeled pop prodigies.